Arrangement of garden paths from pavers: a report...

Arrangement of garden paths from pavers: a report based on personal experienceI have decided to start the work in accordance with the upgrading of the newly acquired land plot from the planning and arrangement of garden paths. For the hands, I already had an intention made by a landscape designer. For the plan, not including buildings and plants, curved paths leading to all"strategic"sites of the site were designated. As a paving concrete cobblestone was chosen - the material is long and, at the same time, gifted to make a decorative appearance.
I started the device of the tracks without the help of others, because I have to eat a firm belief that the formation of the brigade, even the professor, often quite a few perfectly prepare a"pillow"near the pavement. Later the tile bends down, drops out ... I decided to act without the help of others, so that it would be quick to observe all the rules for paving. Now, if my tracks are ready, I decided to share my construction experience, through the provision of a detailed photo report.
Pavement paths have a complex, multi-layered structure. I decided to extract this sequence of layers (bottom-up):
земля;
geotextile;
large dust 10 cm;
geotextile;
геосетка;
10 cm rubble
geotextile;
granite screenings 5 ​​cm;
concrete paving.
I will try to stage out the technology, which I used to develop the tracks.
Stop 1. Marking and deepening of the ground near the track
The paths I have are curved, hence the ordinary rope and pegs, like recommended in the literature for the sake of markup, it is problematic to extract. The release was simple. For the sake of forming, one must extract something flexible, for the sake of me, a suitable rubber material was the suitable marking material. With the help of it, I formed the outline of one side of the track.
Then I applied a straight rake to the hose and marked the second side of the path with a shovel. Later, he"gnawed"pieces of humus with cubes on both sides of the path, they served as a guide for the forthcoming excavation of the trench. Cutting humus according to the contours of the tracks
To dig a trench took a few days, together we had to uproot 2 stumps and a bush of currants, which for their failure were for the path of the future path. The depth of the trench came out near 35 cm. Because part of me is not completely smooth, for the sake of endurance of the trench level, an optical level was used. Excavated trench
Stop 2. Laying geotextiles and filling sand
For the bottom and wall of the trench, I laid Dupont geotextile. The development is as follows: the cut is cut through the roll according to the width of the path and laid in the trench. Later, the edges of the material will be cut off and covered with earth.
Geotextile makes a very significant function. It protects the layers of road pie through blending. In this case, the geotextile will not let the sand (which it has been sufficiently filled with) to wash out into the earth.
Dust (large, quarry) was covered with a layer of 10 cm. The action of filling the sand for a laid geotextile discharge
In order to ensure the leveling of the layer, I placed pretty racks for a height of 10 cm in front of the backfilling across the trench, with a step of about 2 m. Typical beacons appeared, according to which I dusted the dust.
Because it was necessary to pull something off the sand mounds and iron them according to the rails, I thought of a tool playing the construction rule, but for the handle. In general, I took a hoe, screwed it to a rail for 2 screws, got a common equalizer for the sake of loose layers. Aligned.
However, align - a little, according to the end of the discharge must be very compacted, compacted. For the sake of this work, I had to buy a tool - an electronic vibration plate TSS-VP90E. Beginning I tried to ram again the not leveled sand grades, because I found that the board is pregnant and flat - it will straighten all the way out. However, it was not without cause. The vibroplate was constantly striving to stop in the ascent and descent of sand, it had to be dismissed, pushed aside. But if the dust was leveled by my altered hoe, it went easier. Without encountering obstacles, the plate compactor moves freely, like in accordance with oil. Sand tamping with electronic plate compactor
I swept the plate with the sand layer a couple of times, then each passage spilled water. The dust became dense so that if I walked according to him, there was virtually no trace left. To be rammed the dust must be poured a few times with water, so that it is very condensed
Stop 3. Laying geotextiles, geonets and curb installation
According to the sand, I laid down the 2nd grade of geotextile. Geotextiles will not allow sand to be confused with the next layer of crushed stone
Next, according to the plan, agree on the geogrid, on top of which the frame is mounted. It seems to be very simple. However, eat an obstacle. Curbs (high 20 cm, length 50 cm) are straight, and the paths are curved. It turns out that the curbs repeat the stripes of tracks, should cut them around the corner, and then dock together. Cutting and trimming the ends I did for a cheap stone cutting machine, measuring the angle of cutting off beforehand with an electric goniometer.
All-cropped curbs were exposed in line with the edges of the tracks, docking - virtually impeccable. It turned out that the bulk of the pebbles was cut for pieces of 20-30 cm, mostly steep turns were collected from pieces of 10 cm. The gaps between the stones to be the final assembly were 1-2 mm. Fit curbs around the curvature of the tracks
Now, around the exposed borders, we need to lay a geo-grid. In order not to work again by docking and re-setting the curbs, I painted their position with lines and spray-paint. Then he removed the pebbles. The position of the stones is indicated by a paint
Cut out pieces of geonet and laid them out for the bottom of the trench. I have a Tensar Triax grid, with triangular cells. Such cells are not bad for those that are stable in all directions, withstand the forces applied across, across and on to the tip. If the tracks are straight, then there are no problems, it is permissible to extract ordinary mesh with square cells. They are stable in proportion to the length and across, but stretch out to the south. To me, with my paths, these do not fit.
Above the geonet, I exposed the curb stones for the room. Geolocation and setting of curbs
It remains to drop them out for solution, in order to fix the location. This action was complicated, because the altitude levels should be abstained, in advance the data for the site plan. Usually, for the sake of observing the level, it is recommended to remove the rope (thread). However, this is right for the sake of straight paths. With curved lines it is more difficult, then you have to use building height, law, level and constantly check with project levels.
A real ordinary solution - dust, cement, water. The trowel is applied to the necessary room, then the curb is set for it, the altitude is checked by the level. For no reason, I set stones all the way to the two sides of the tracks. Fastening of curbstones for cement mortar M100
The next important clarification: a separate day later, work must be washed with a damp brush, the sticky solution from the sides and the upper part of the pebbles. If it cools and removes it is already more difficult, it will spoil the overall appearance of the tracks.
Stop 4. Backfill of crushed stone and laying of geotextile
Subsequent discharge - gravel 10 cm. I will note that gravel is not used for the construction of tracks. It is rounded in shape, therefore, it does not work like a single digit. Granite rubble, who is used for my tracks, is a completely different occupation. It has sharp edges, which are interlocked between themselves. For the same reason, for gravel roads, gravel crushed stone (in other words, the same gravel, but crushed, with torn edges). Aligning a layer of rubble with a rod with cut grooves
Tamped the discharge with a plate compactor.
Over the rubble - geotextile. This is its third rank, which is necessary to prevent mixing of the next layer (screening) with rubble. Laying the third layer of geotextile
Stop 5. Form a smoothing layer near the pavement
In most cases, the paving slab is laid for garnovku - a poor cement mash, or for a large dust. I decided to apply granite screening of 0-5 mm fraction for these purposes.
I bought dropouts, fell asleep - without a break, like with the previous layers. The bulk thickness of screening is 8 cm. Then the laying of pavers and ramming is much less - its planned final thickness is 5 cm. The reason that then the ramming squeezes will sink for 3 cm is obtained experimentally through. Another smoothing discharge, for example, from sand, can give a very different shrinkage. Therefore, before you start the paving, the desire to deceive the experience: lay out the pavement for a small part of the path, ram it and see how to fill it up.
The alignment of the backfill should be approached very closely, using a smoothing rail with grooves near the planned height of the layer. Backfilling of the screening and its alignment with a wooden strip
Stop 6. Laying of pavers
The height of the cobblestones obtained is 8 cm. According to the plan, it should be laid equally with the border. To start laying it is necessary from the central part of the path, closer to the curbs begins pruning. It is necessary to have a complicated pattern of paving to be cut abundantly. I sawed the pavement a second time for the machine tool, it was painful - it takes a lot of time and energy. However, it turned out perfectly!
The development of pavers laying is quite ordinary. In fact, the tile should be simply hammered into the backfilling with kicks. Together and the backfilling is rammed, and the paving stones are fixed. The height of the floor is controlled by a tight cord or thread. The occurrence of pavers laying - from the central part of the tracks
The image of the track is already visible, it remains to file and install the paving stones near the curbs
I piled the laid pavers with a vibration plate, I did not use a rubber gasket - I have it. Here is a track left!
As a result, I have a reliable, beautiful path, which is always dry and not slippery.
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