The rules for laying paving slabs on a concrete foundation

The rules for laying paving slabs on a concrete foundation If it's time to pave the tracks, then in most cases, for the suburbs, use the paving slab. It is much more aesthetic, if the concrete or asphalt, and in accordance with strength they are not inferior. It's easier to hire masters who have the technology of laying, but if you can pay up to 10 cu. Because of the square, it is permissible to re-qualify for the time of vacation in the pawnbroker and decide for yourself. The essence is to execute a technology that is not causeless and complex, to find the right tools and to determine the"pillow"for which you will evaluate the material of the finish. It can exist from a sandy-cement consistency, gravel and concrete. We will examine,
The concrete base is a flooded and coarse flat platform, according to which the sidewalk tile is pretty much cured. This method provides a much greater hardness of the coating, if the sand-cement pillow, which for no reason uses it in places where the tile is enough to do the burden of a pregnant technique or a frequent collection of transport. In addition, to level without tiles around a single height is much easier, if the bottom is not a mobile mash, but a hard base. It will not shrink in the process of solidification, not quite failures and other problems associated with poor ramming. Consequently, the owners, who do not have the experience of construction, but who decide to act, will simplify the alignment of the coating in a single wit by this method of laying. The concrete base near the pavement provides an increased strength of the site, however it is more difficult to make it if laying tiles for sand and gravel mash
And yet, the laying of paving slabs for concrete is used infrequently, since this development has bait aspects associated with tap water withdrawal from the tile surface. To be an ordinary sandy-cement method of precipitation go through a hygroscopic base in the ground and do not cause any damage to the coating. If concrete is poured, the water that penetrates near the pavement can not be avoided deeper, because the whole base of its simple will not miss. In the end, it gets stuck between the base and the tile, in the intertwist seams, and as the frost hits, it will start to expand, pushing the cover upward. Like the consequence of this, paving can in some places to swell, split on the sides, etc.
Therefore, in order to pour a concrete foundation, special attention is paid to water removal: make lines, point moisture absorbers, lay pavers with a slope in a certain direction, etc.

Preparing the site for construction work
First, a breakdown of the site is carried out, which will be paved: pegs are driven in and exposed for no apparent reason reddish marks. By this term, builders designate a tightly stretched thread that delineates the boundaries of the future elevation of your site. Take an ordinary twine, tie it to pegs for that height, where the tile ends rather. Do not forget to execute the gradient of the thread at 5 degrees to the place of future water receivers. Even to be laid down narrow paths reddish tags are continually exposed to get a smooth edge, a flawless horizontal and the right angle of inclination for the sake of water flow
Further inspect, how many cm of free space through the threads in front of the ground. If less than 30 - shoot with a shovel all-around excess and take out for the wheelbarrow far away, so as not to interfere. The green earth is allowed to emerge steadily for melon or in places where flower gardens are planned.
The edge of the ready land"trough"is reinstalled at the edges by borders. Some masters of curbs then pour concrete, but in this case it is necessary to protect the outskirts of the site through soil shedding, i.e. evaluate the formwork. Therefore, for the inexperienced moneylenders, the main variation is preferable. If you install curbs at once, you do not have to delay the time for the formwork product, and then its dismantling, well, the concrete will fill the area without cracks
If a frame is used, the height of which is 50 cm, then:
digging a trench again for 30 cm deep
covered with a layer of rubble (about 10 cm)
lay the cement slurry (more than 1.5 cm)
for him, the frame is framed for no reason, so that the high edge of the laying is 2-3 cm lower than the edge of the pavers. This is necessary in order that the frame does not hold water for the site, but helps its removal.
To be the lowest height of the curb the depth of the trench is correspondingly reduced. The height of the frame should be slightly lower than the kind of pavers, in order to secure precipitation runaway from the site and not allow moisture to stagnate
Technological action of casting concrete
After a day, then the frame is allowed to start pouring concrete. If you are creating a site for which it is enough to drive machinery, in particular a large-sized, concrete base needs to be reinforced. For this purpose, the situation (width less than 10-ki), which is knit with a cell size of 15-20 cm. If the tracks are only pedestrian, then you do not need to reinforce. Concrete is a desire to extinguish dust, who by quite an additional drainage for the sake of seeping water and will allow it to die alive in the ground
So that the moisture got through the paving slab for concrete could penetrate further, and not stick out inside, you need to make special drainage holes. For this, use an asbestos pipe, cutting it for pieces, 15-20 cm high (the height should be the same with the height of the concrete layer, who you later fill). The pieces of asbestos are laid out according to the whole terrain with the calculation one for sq.m. Then the pouring of concrete is not removed. It is permissible to make holes and out of small pieces in the form of squares, but then you will have to take wood to absorb the concrete.
Now we are preparing ordinary concrete using cement grade 150-200. Fill it with a layer of 15 cm - if there is no reinforcement, 20 cm - if the situation is laid. If a large area is flooded, then every three meters you need to do an unreasonably named temperature seam. It is needed to prevent winter cracking of the substrate. The seam is easier to carry out only by pressing the edge of the board into the concrete with a width of half a centimeter. Then they are removed, and the voids are filled with elastic filler. The apogee of the seam is smeared with concrete, in order to equalize with the rest of the surface.
After a day, remove the timber formwork from the drainage holes and fill them with the same gravel with the edge of the concrete.
Sand and cement cushion article
The schedule then:
Sift dust, we interfere with cement 6: 1 (it is easier only in a concrete mixer)
We fill the pad with a layer before 10 cm (taking into account the thickness of the pavers), i.e. the thickness of the cushion + the thickness of the tile should go from behind a reddish label for about 2 cm (shrink wrap).
We use a plate compactor or a treadmill (a beam for which a wide board is nailed from below, and the handle bar is stuffed from above).
Check the tension of the bard labels, so that the slope goes. It's right, remember, which pegs are better to evaluate more often, because even a very tight fiber gives a sag in 1 mm for one meter.
We lay out lighthouses (pipes with a diameter of 20 mm) according to the site. They need to be pressed tightly to the pillow, so that through the shoelaces in front of the beacon there was an interval equal to the thickness of your tile + 1 cm for compaction. The gap between the beacons is slightly less than the length of your rule.
Then we take the law and tighten, orienting ourselves to the beacon, the excess of sand and cement cushion, in order to get a completely flat appearance.
We take out the first beacons where you will begin to evaluate the tile (according to the pillow it is impossible to walk!), fill the furrows with the same consistency and begin laying the tiles for the concrete base. Here, for free, it looks like this: If a large area is created, it is easier to mix dust and cement in a concrete mixer, and then deliver a ready-made mash for the wheelbarrow
For narrow paths, the rule can be a flat board, in which the edges are cut off, and as beacons - the edges of the established border
To lay pavers, the last tiles will have to be excited, therefore find a Bulgarian in advance and set up a diamond circle in order to act absolutely smooth cuts
Styling tweaks: it seems like being without a plate compactor?
If you have done all the past stages for shame, then it's quite easy to solve the paving stones. Tiles are laid not closely, but with seams near 5 mm. They will not allow tiles to hit, if the cover is pretty"walk"through the differences in temperature and water. Some owners begin laying the tiles from the most visible side of the site, so that all sections and fit out in places less noticeable for the sake of an eye
Begin laying across the curb. Usually they move according to the marks from the top down, in the direction, it is much enough to drain the water. Try between tiles to throw flat seams, more than 5 mm, so that the coating looked symmetrical, and in the winter expansion of the tile was not squeezed out one another
Smooth out the appearance of each tile, tapping a kyanik (rubber hammer) and checking the level with the horizontal. In the upcoming one, it is necessary to press the whole view with a plate compactor, so that the tiles sit as if according to stretched threads, but if it is not there, then a wide cutting of the board is used at a time to be laid. It is laid flat for fairly tiles and pricked with a kyanite for a suitable height.

Interlaced stitches can be filled with the same consistency from which you made the pillow, or small sand. The main variation makes the whole coating, which weakly passes the water inwards. In addition, the grass and moss grow less frequently in the joints. However, if you drive in for such a tile in winter in a languid transport, then the seams and edges of the tile can strike, because there are no thermoshocks. Any matter, in book number and cobblestone, to be low temperatures expands. And there is no gap for this expansion. There is a heavy burden in the seams, and if it's time to pass something heavy according to the coating, concrete can not withstand the load.
Sutures filled with sand, excellent maintain the integrity of the coating, but through their deposits immediately fall near the tile. For no reason that diversion of water should exist for a higher level. Before, according to the whole site, dust or sand and gravel mash are scattered, and then carefully sweep it into the seams between the tiles
For the sake of filling the joints with a consistency or sand, use an ordinary private golik. The amount is sprinkled according to the surface of the coating and gently swept into the seams, and the excess is removed.
The site is ready. Desire, according to her, not to walk for three days, so that the pillow would water the water and solidify. It is better to solve the board or plywood, so as not to push the edge of the tiles near the pressure of the body.