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Caring for roses in autumn: how to prepare shrubs...

Caring for roses in autumn: how to prepare shrubs for wintering in September and October?
With the advent of September, the rosewood begins a guilty gap. The time of flowering in many species has already passed, and it's time to prepare the bushes for the winter. If to designate in 3 words, which is education due to roses in the fall, then it is enough: pruning, transplanting and the product of refuge for the winter. Relative and we already wrote, therefore we will dedicate the article to other autumn works, which are more important for the sake of plant life.
September: last feeding and preparation of planting holes
Potash phosphorus feed
Begins upbringing because of roses in September with feeding bushes. Abundant flowering takes a lot of nutrients from the bush, so you need to return the balance in order to strengthen the roots and branches. Top dressing is carried out either by ready mixtures/granules, or separately purchased phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. They stop the profits of roses, accelerate the lignification of shoots and increase the resistance of bushes to frost. For the autumn feeding, granular fertilizers are preferable, since they are not absorbed at all times, but evenly, so that the rose is not ripe for rapid maturation
There should be no nitrogen in the fertilizer composition, as it affects vegetation, increases the size of the greenish mass of plants, and in the autumn it seems like once and it is not necessary. If to provoke fertilizing the growth of young shoots, then this will only weaken the bush and reduce the possibility of an ordinary wintering. Well, without azure green branches without a break, they will perish through the frost.
Prishtipka also contributes to the isolation of shoots. After a week, then top-ups of branches should be answered by the sector in order to remove the growth point.
Decrease of irrigation
In September, the drying flowers continue to respond and the loosening of the land and watering ceases, thereby stopping the gain of new roots. The root order must mature, in order to successfully survive the winter. Even if the shoots are freeze-free, one dormant kidney will be enough for the bush to come alive again. However, massive, healthy, mature roots are needed for this.
But in the middle of the month it is permissible to undertake land preparation for the planting of young shrubs. Pink growers have a law: if you want to plant a rose in the spring, prepare for it in the fall. Consequently, in September, the preparation of the land for the sake of the coming rosary is being done in vain.
Like to prepare the ground for future planting?
After identifying with the place of the rosary, mark the location of each bush with pegs. Consider their value in the adult state, since a strong thickening will not allow the plants to develop normally. They will begin to transmit each other fungal infections and will be slightly ventilated. In addition, the lower part of the bush will begin to turn yellow, and the sheets will crumble. And extremely rare plantings are also unprofitable. In this case, the weeds begin to settle near the rose, and the soil quickly overheats. The pre-harvesting holes are oriented to the size of an adult plant, because the height of climbing roses can reach 3 meters, and the thickening of the plantations will only damage them Focus on the following numbers: half a meter - for the sake of floribunda and tea roses;
70 cm - intermediate repair;
meter - between whips;
one and a half - between park and half-lobed.
If roses are planned as a proportion of the composition, then you should anticipate the free space between them and other plants, so you can live pruning and hide for the winter without harm for the sake of other colors. If the soil for the plot of cereal, then use it in the composition of the soil mixture, and if exhausted - move to another room of the site
We select the depth of the landing pit:
If the bottom for the site is rested, and previously nothing grew for it, then all the land you will find from the pit is allowed to be extracted for the sake of making a corny consistency.
If all the soil for the rosary was deliberately brought , then the pit is digging, orienting for the length of the roots + 15 cm. For reasons of planting roses with roots of 40 cm dig a hole 55 cm deep and half a meter wide.
For poor sandy or clayey lands, they pits deeper - about 70 cm, in order to fill them with grassy soil.
Depends on the number of landing holes, prepare an extraordinary amount of soil mixture, orienting, which for a separate bush will leave near 2 buckets of land. The entire mash is created in the following proportion (1 share is 1 weather): 2 parts of grassy soil + share of sand + share of peat + share of humus + 0.5 part of weathered clay + share of sod land.
To this the composition is supplemented with mineral fertilizers: 2 cups of bone meal + 2 cups of ash + 2 cups of dolomite flour + 100 gr. all-embracing fertilizer for the sake of roses. All-time components should be mixed, pouring out for a sheet of tin or film, and then scattered in accordance with the landing pit. Suggestion! If you do not find the bone meal in the garden shops, shovel into the food for the sake of animals. It can be sold there as a feed for food. October: planting and transplanting young plants
In October, the autumn education, due to roses, boils down to planting and transplanting the young plants, as well as the cleaning of the earth through the falling foliage and other debris. In adult plants, which do not need to be transplanted, the leaves are cut without leaves, so that they do not take the feeding through the roots. It was time for the bush to prepare for the winter, and the gardener will facilitate this task by pruning the leaves and young branches.

Остановимся подробнее для посадке юных роз:Ежели саженцы покупались с открытой корневой системой, то их из за день перед посадки вымачивают в воде с биостимулятором.
Before landing, a separate bush is inspected, all the foliage and spoiled or unripened branches are trimmed, and the above-ground share is also shortened. The best height of the bush is 35 cm. The higher plants tolerate the winter more horribly .
The root system is also inspected and if rotted roots are found, then they are cut out. Extremely long roots (above 30 cm) are shortened.
If the sleeping buds are found below the site of the vaccine, they are removed, as this is a wild shoot.
For disinfection, a separate bush is sprinkled with steel vitriol.
Planting of the bush:
Before planting, the root system is dipped into a moulder of clay and mullein,In each pit, a hill of prepared soil mixture already has to be poured.
The plant is planted for the hill, straightening the roots along the edges of the pea. Under no circumstances do we wrap the roots upward, but just down.
The vaccination site must deplete below the ground level for 5 cm (in stalks - for 7-10 cm).
Holding one with a hand the seedling, the second plant the soil before the soil level, compacting with the hands at once.
Then the planting is ground with the feet and watered a lot.
If the watering of the vaccine is extremely damped, the rose is slightly raised and
If the moisture is absorbed, the bush is hilled for a height of about 20 cm.
By the end of October, the stiff varieties are removed from the trellis and evenly bent to the ground, while the branches are flexible. The roses are planted without restriction to straighten the roots so that they look down. Root plants are easier to adapt to new conditions.
Climbing roses that require asylum, try to kill for the ground before the advent of frost, while the branches are flexible and amenable to impact, and crush it
November: cooking for frosts
The upbringing of garden roses in autumn is coming to an end in November. This is the moon preparing the bushes for the winter. And you need to wait before the arrival of measured frosts to take shelter, bring wood from lapnik or buy lutrasil.

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