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Such different thallandsia: how to take care of a capricious plant

Such different thallandsia: how to take care of a capricious plant <> Tillandsia is a real discovery for those who like to be exotic, original and extraordinary all the time. This houseplant is quite a really beautiful accent in the interior. Different future is not at all like a well-wisher for a friend, however the foliage decorative and pretty flowering remain constant. Tillandsia is demanding enough in care, therefore it is necessary to learn in advance with advice according to cultivation at home. For its popularity, such"capriciousness"does not seem to affect - lovers of green pets rightly believe that the effort expended with interest.
Rosette in Tillandsia, usually,
You can divide Tillandsia for two groups:

Terrestrial or"green". They have a small hard trunk and a dense outlet of leaves. They are bright green lanceolate or triangular, smooth. The average length is 30-40 cm, width 3-5 cm. The root order is quite powerful, developed.
Epiphytic, atmospheric or"gray". They do not have stems. The leaves are greyish-green or olive with silvery tint, very narrow, almost filiform (less than 1 cm wide, 20-25 cm long). Theyare covered with"scales", by means of which water and nutrients are sucked from the air. Dwell for trees, using a"host"like a prop. Typically, there is an educated system of air roots. The plant is very capricious, therefore, it is not often found in domestic conditions.
Tillandsia, belonging to the epiphytic group, frank is allowed to be included in the list of the most unusual houseplants In domestic conditions, the life of Tillandsia is short - less than 5 years. It ends with the flowering of the plant. After that, the mother socket dies off, having previously collected one or fairly daughter. Tillandsia produces from the center of the outlet very unusual large bright pink or crimson bracts, similar to the ear or the blade of the oars with"thorns"along the edge. Then for them there are three-lobed lilac, lavender or purple flowers. The petals of their narrow, evenly bend back.
Caloric bracts of Tillandsia add attraction and causelessly to the spectacular plant

These are more common colors, but others are purple, white, sky blue, bright blue, coral, red, yellow. Tones are very pure, therefore, Tillandsia seems to be shining. It seems to be the creation of a professional artist who likes to make acrylic paints.
Tillandsia flowers, for reward through bracts, p> The full action lasts for about 2 months. In nature, flowering in most cases occurs in the summer, but at home it can begin at any time. In principle, it can be provoked, in the course of 2-3 months, once a week, spraying the plant prepared according to the annotation a substance of the biostimulator (Zircon, Heteroauxin). Then flowering ripens the grain - a small"box"with an abundance of small seeds.
Exotic Tillandsia is able to decorate any interior

Video: Tillandsia bloom
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From only the abundance of Tillandsia to home conditions, some future could adapt. Eat and selective modifications, but they are also few. The most popular:
Tillandsia tri-color (tricolor). Straight trunks 7-10 cm long and dense rosettes of thin leaves covered with scales. The length of the leaf is about 20 cm. The name of the plant should be very unusual red-yellow-green bracts. The colors change from the skyward skyward. A lot of peduncles are formed. The flowers are bright violet.
Thillandsia fan (flabellata). It is very similar to Tillandsia tri-color, differ only bracts. They have an unusual tubular shape and are painted in brilliant coral or red paint.
Tillandsia blue (suanea). The height of the rosette is about 25 cm. The length of the leaf is about 30 cm, width is 2.5-3 cm. The main color is bright green, however, a purple or purple subtle is also guessed. The flower spike is small enough, often curved. The length of the inflorescence is about 15 cm, the width is about half the size. It is placed in front of 20 buds. Crimson bracts, according to the degree of fading, change the paint to that of straw. The flowers are blue-violet, kept very short.
Tillandsia Anita (anita). This is popular among breeding hybrids, the"parent"is Tillandsia blue. Leaves scaly, lanceolate The tip is very sharp, relative it is even allowed to prick. The flowers are soft blue, the bracts are pink and purple. In proportion to the degree of fading, they become green.
Tillandsia André (andreana). The trunk is long, leafy. Leaves are belt-shaped, thin, sometimes curled in a spiral. They are covered with grayish-brown scales. The flower does not form a plant, its inflorescence is apical. Flowers bright-scarlet, about 4 cm across.
Tillandsia Arauje (araujei). The trunk is 25-30 cm tall, single or branching. Leaves are short, thick, 3-7 cm long, in the shape of a cylinder with a bent apex. The flower spike is covered with pinkish scales. Bracts of crimson, white flowers, 2-3 cm in diameter.
Tillandsia bulbose or bulbosa. In nature it forms whole colonies, covering the soil with a solid carpet. The height of the stem varies 5-7 before 18-20 cm. The length of the leaf is about 30 cm, width is 5-8 cm. At the base - a noticeable bulge with a diameter of 5-6 cm, which is then thinned. The flower stem is covered with grayish-red scales. Bracts are green-scarlet, lavender flowers. Tillandsia is mossy or snaky (usneoides), she is also a"grandfather's beard."The most popular plant from the group epiphytic. The leaves are threadlike, gray or silver-gray, similar to the net. Length - before 5 cm, width - 1 mm. There are a lot of them, so a typical"cascade"is formed thanks to the meter stems. The plant looks very nice if it falls off the support. Does not need support. The flowers are small, pale yellow or yellowish-green. Eat a natural mutation in which they are bluish.
Tillandsia is filthy (filifolia). The height of the rosette is about 25 cm. The leaves are bright green, the flower stem is brownish. In the inflorescence, according to 10-16 buds."Kolos"is very spacious, almost triangular. The flowers are small (1-1.5 cm across), pastel-lilac.
Tillandsia is recurvata. The trunks are longer than 10 cm and the rosette is slightly more in line with the height. The leaves are rather thin, soft, 15-17 cm long. The flower stem is 15 cm high, and pubescent. For each bract, only 1-2 flowers. Petals are lilac or white.
Tillandscia silvery (argentea). The trunk is small, in front of 5 cm. The height of the rosette is close to 25 cm. The curled spiral-twisting leaves are covered with snow-white or red"pile", they go through its bases chaotically. Length - 7-10 cm, width - less than 2-3 mm. Tsvetonos impeccable, impartial or nicking. In the inflorescence of 6-8 plants with pale scarlet petals.
Tillandsia is double-edged (anceps). A very dense rosette of 40-50 leaves 18-20 cm long. For the general bright green background, longitudinal crimson streaks stand out. Bracts are greenish-white, petals of the color of mallow.
Tillandsia Linden (lindenii). In the socket after 30 before 60 leaves. The average length is 20-25 cm, width - 1.5-2 cm. The bracts are crimson or crimson. The flowers are large (more than 5 cm across), dark blue. The bases of the petals are white.
Tillandsiya fialkotvetkovaya (ionantha). Small rosettes of silver-green leaves. Bracts bluish or lavender. If they are formed, the leaves in the center of the rosette are evenly red.
Tillandsia Dyer (dyeriana). The rosette consists of leaves, similar to pine needles. Bracts coral, flowers are tender pink.
Tillands disease Medusa (caput-medusae). The bases of the leaves in the rosette close together so tightly that they form a thing similar to a onion or a pseudobulb of an orchid. Their tips are bent backwards. The bracts are red or crimson, the flowers are bright blue. From a distance, the plant recollects a jellyfish or squid.
Tillandsia protruding (stricta). Leaves in the form of very narrow triangles, are similar to a blade of grass. Length - 15-20 cm, width - 0.5-1 cm. Peduncles are curved. Bracts from below skyward change the coloring from pastel pink to crimson. Flowers are bluish-lilac. Photos: Tillandsia, popular with amateur growers Tillandsia protrudes in most cases curved peduncles
Tillandsia disease Medusa truly causes associations with a known myth
Tillandsia Dyer has very colorful bracts and flowers
The leaves in the center of the rosette of Tillandsia fialcoloraceous grow purple in proportion to the formation of the peduncle.
Tillandsia Linden is a fairly common agent of the genus
Tillandsia is double-edged to be freely distinguished according to white bracts
Tillandsia Silver looks so special that it does not seem all right. The representative of perishable flora
Leaves in Tillandsia bent for the touch are rather soft, Tillandsia nitelistnaya whole justifies the name
Looking for Tillandsia mossy, hard to believe that this is the whole plant, rather than a bunch of threads
Tillandsia lukovitsevidnaya got the name because of characteristic of the thickening at the base of the sheet
have Tillandsia Araujo flowers are very rare snow-white color
Tillandsia Andre, in the award through the"relatives", not forms the eduncle/div> Tillandsia Anita - currently very popular breeding hybrid
Tillandsia blue gardeners meets in apartments in pain instve cases
Tillandsia Tillandsia Fan is very reminiscent of three-color, Tillandscia tricolor is similar to a coiled hedgehog

Rational conditions for the sake of plants
To make in"captivity"an ordinary local climate relatively simple for Tillandsia. A plant in nature is accustomed to adapt to a wide range of not always suitable weather and weather criteria.
List: like to make a proper local climate

ReasonWindow sill, facing east or west. Seizure - Tillandsia blue, which is better to put for the northern window. Uncoverable ventilation and no drafts. Any Tillandsia should be enough space for the free circulation of air currents. In summer it is allowed to sing a pot for an open atmosphere. The desire to place it in the penumbra, providing protection through the wind and rain. Epiphytic Tillandsia in the standard must have a special florarium or mini-greenhouse. Explanation Any Tillandsia categorically does not tolerate direct sunlight. Balanced option for the sake of"green"- a brilliant confused aristocracy in the course of only age. In autumn and winter, backlighting with fluorescent or special phytolamps is useful. Epiphytic Tillandsia comfortably feel themselves in the penumbra, in the depth of the room to be all artificial light. Temperature Powerful weather for the sake of the plant is disastrous. In summer, the desire to help the temperature in the spectrum of 22-28? C, in the winter - to lower it before 20? C."Cold"below 18? C"green"Tillandsia will not survive, the epiphytic will die 12? C. By daytime swings (mostly in summer), both are normal. For the sake of the Tillandsian epiphytes, the highest air humidity (80% or more) is a relevant significant figure. In an unpleasant case, they simply can not perceive nutrients from the atmosphere."Green"Tillandsiyam rather in the heat cover the earth with wet moss-sphagnum or coconut fiber, make a"company"of other plants and once in 2-3 days sprayed with soft warm water. The best indicator of air humidity for their 50-60%.
The room for the sake of Tillandsia is selected based on the group to which it belongs p> Tillandsia, mostly epiphytic, looks very beautiful in compositions. This common variation -"bromeliad tree"Make an exclusive decoration of the interior is not difficult - the gardener is limited only by his imagination. In order for plants to feel themselves in such conditions, one must adhere to certain rules:
do not remove the treated tree impregnated with lacquers and other chemicals poisonous for plants;
wrap the base of the rosette with wet moss - sphagnum and then to strengthen to the support;
according to the ability to determine them with a wire (necessarily isolated), extract the glue exclusively in the latter case. The bromeliad tree from Tillandsia looks very beautiful

Video: Tillandsia in the florarium

Small Tillandsias feel great in the florarium

The landing and transplant action Tillandsia transplantation is needed just for the sake of moving the acquired plant from an unsuitable store substrate. The rate of growth is not different, hence before flowering, after which the rosette dies off, everything can be in one pot, even in the course of 4-5 years. With all this, the desire once a year to remove the top 2-3 soil and replace it with fresh soil.
A faithful substratum for the sake of Tillands is not very much like soil in the usual sense of this chatter. It is allowed to purchase the finished land for the sake of the Bromeliads or orchids or to mix it without the help of others from leafy land, peat crumb and finely chopped moss-sphagnum (1: 1: 1). A different variation is humus, peat, sphagnum moss and large dust (4: 1: 1: 1). Balsamic coal or chalk (5-7% through the total volume) is added without fail >
Tillandsia is allowed to grow in a special soil for the sake of orchids

The root order of Tillandsia is poorly developed, it grows in the main in width, hence the pot is chosen shallow, similar to a salad bowl or soup plate. It is better if it is rather made of unglazed ceramics - for the sake of correct air exchange.
The book, which the flower should be immediately watered, says drooping, twisted leaves in a tube. If such a drying occurs, place the pot of Tillandsia in a container of water for no reason, so that it covers the soil, for 10-12 hours. Then dry well and adjust the watering schedule.
Spray the exact flower daily (in the heat even 2-3 times a day). A warm shower is also useful for epiphytic plants, since it is not feasible to water them.
Spraying is an absolutely necessary action for Tillandsia, mostly epiphytic
Video: watering epiphytic Tillands

Common gardener errors
Unintentional gardener errors lead Tillandsia not to look well. Predominantly healthy plant suffers from extremely low humidity.
List: it seems like there are errors in care due to Tillandsia

The exterior of the plant Probable root causeThe mother socket dries up. Then flowering is an innate action. In time,"offspring"are formed. In the unpleasant case, this means a shortage of water both in the soil and in the air. The tips of the leaves turn brown. Too high temperature, low air humidity or introduction for the sake of watering of cool and/or hard water. The leaves lose their stiffness, make them curl. The plant has not been watered for a long time, the land has dried up. Very slow profits, deformed faded leaves. Lack of light or inappropriate land.
The brownish and withered tips of the leaves of Tillandsia testify to a book that the plant is not comfortable with extremely low air humidity
Like and without a Bromelia, Tillandsia being appropriate care is sometimes enough to suffer through diseases and pest attacks. Light preventive measures can reduce the risk of infection practically to zero:
isolation of newly acquired plants for 20-25 days
a weekly inspection of the collection (preferably through a magnifying glass) and an immediate place in the"quarantine"of all colors with suspicious symptoms showing up;
free division of pots for a window sill, without crowding and crowding;
style="text-align: justify; maintaining humidity for a measuredly high level, correct watering;
feeding in accordance with advice >
the introduction of disinfected land, the sterilization of pots and tools. List: Tillandsac disease and pests

Pain or pest External manifestationsМеры борьбыКорневая гнилостьThe base of the rosette turns black, dark blotches spread out for the leaves. The fabrics soften, the substrate is tightened by mold. Through the plants it smells of rottenness. The plant, which has suffered through rottenness, is left to kill. For early stages, a"surgical operation"may help, and it does not guarantee success.

Cut leaves all the time, in book number and with the least damage. Slices sprinkled with chalk, coal, cinnamon.
Carry out a transplant, changing the earth and taking an unprecedented pot. In the substrate, mix the granules of Gliokladin, Alirin-B.
lune the plant with 0.25% Discourte, Vectra, Phytosporin, or a substance of potassium permanganate (0.1 g/l). /td>Color spotting (phyllosticosis) For leaves, starting from the lowest, olive spots bloom uniformly changing the paint for straw. The turnover is covered with a continuous layer of green-gray-brown plaque.

Cut the leaves that have survived through the fungus. Eliminate individual parts of the tissue unsuccessfully. The remaining ones are sprayed with a substance of potassium permanganate (0.25 g/l) or powdered with sifted wood ash,
After 2-3 days, treat the rosette and the soil with the substance of Abig-Pick, Strobi, Vitas.
Repeat function with an interval of 7-10 days before the complete elimination of symptoms. Powdery mullet Small"pellets"Between leaves, in the center of the rosette, at its base. The leaves vividly fade and dry.

Spray the plant with soap foam with the addition of alcohol or vodka.

For 2-3 days, arrange a flower and a container with finely chopped onion or garlic around the plastic part. According to the ability to try to perform a"shelter"sealed.
If the action does not work, use Tanrek, Rogor, Nurell-D. 2-3 treatments will be useful with an interval of 5-10 days. Root worm Leaves bloared, the flower of the flower practically stops . The bottom flows through the edges of the pot, near it - a discharge of whitish substance resembling wax. In the ground, mainly at the roots - snow-white impregnations. Pour the earth with Apache, Dantop, Confidora-Maxi substance. Repeat three months every 10 days.
In every 2-3 days, spray the soil and the outlet with a decoction of cyclamen tubers. The bromeliad shield For the leaves (in the main for the inside) small irregularities of different colors of the coffee appear. They vividly"swell, Cover the shell of visible pests with turpentine, vinegar, engine oil. It is allowed to remove quite a few hours of scabbards.
Wipe the leaves with soap, wash the plant.
Treat with Fundazolum, Permethrin, Metaphos. Repeat 2-3 more times with an interval of 7-10 days. Whitefly Grayish-white insects similar to mole, rise in the atmosphere, it is just a little touch the flower.
Adult individuals catch for sticky tape for the sake of flies or self-made traps. The usual fumigator is also effective if it works without a break for 2-3 days.
Vacuum a flower day by day, picking up a whitefly.
style="Daily-spray: justify;">Daily spray the earth and leaves with infusions of hot pepper, dispassionate mustard, tobacco chips. If there is no result, treat with Aktara, Bitoksibacillin, Fury, the Marshal. Repeat every 3-5 days before the complete disappearance of the butterflies. <
Photo gallery: diseases and pests that affect Tilland
Whitefly is free to find and identify, but getting rid of is difficult enough
Traditional means against scabbards are ineffective - it is protected by a strong carapace
It is possible to make sure the presence of a root canker is allowed, if only to extract the plant from the pot
The leaves affected by the mealybug grow yellow and dry div> Color spot spreads according to the plant from the bottom upwards
root rottenness amenable ICs Jelenia only in the early stages of the disease

This simple and natural method - the rooting of the daughter outlets, which are formed during the death of the maternal sweat bloom. Fruit Tillandsiyu seed, too, no one prohibits, but this method takes much more time and effort. Also have to be patient. New copies will not bloom in advance than in 5 years. Sometimes it is permissible to wait and 8-10 years. Withdrawal is Tillandsia Anita, which forms bracts after 2-3 years.
It's easier just to multiply epiphytic tillandsiyu. For her sake fit only vegetative methods. Pretty neatly untwisted rootlets, dividing one plant for 2-3"bundles". Or separate only one or fairly shoots, fix it for support and spray it daily with the rooting agent.
Rooting off"offspring"
"Children"of Tillandsia, appearing near the mother plant, in most cases already have rootlets. They must be carefully"unscrewed"from the soil afterwards, like they will reach a hill about half as small as that of it. Or if the"parent"withers, remove the plant from the pot and sow the soil. Simply only if the"offspring"is the only one. It remains to be careful to remove the old socket.
Tillandsia's daughter outlets then bloom


Fill the small cups with the consistency of peat crumb and large sand (1: 1). It is allowed to add a little crushed moss-sphagnum.
Evenly moisten the substrate and drop the sockets. You do not need to deepen them.
Place the containers in a mini-greenhouse or make a"greenhouse"with plastic bottles, glass jars, bags. Provide a light day lasting more than 14 hours and a temperature of 25 ° C.
Keep the substrate always in a slightly wet state, sprinkling it with the substance of any rooting catalyst (3-5 ml/l). Daily open the"hotbed"for 5-10 minutes for airing.
After 2-3 months transplant Tillandsia into pots 7-10 cm across,
Multiplication by child sockets is a method provided by nature itself

Seed germination
Seeds of Tillandsia are allowed without problems to purchase. Often, the fruits also mature at home.
Tillandsia seeds often mature at home, if not, they can be purchased in specialized stores without problems.

Fill the flat containers with the consistency of peat and sand (1: 1). Excellent moisturizing and leveling of the substrate.
Seed the seeds according to the surface of the soil, not deepening and not falling asleep on top.Provide the same conditions as the"offspring". Sprouts should appear after 25-30 days.
If the rosettes reach a height of 4-5 cm, arrange them in separate pots. Future upbringing is ordinary.
Video: Tillandsia reproduction methods at home criteria

Gardener's comments

They presented me with an unimpressive flower from a lord's shoulder, who imagined, like Tillandsia: two stunted bushes with longish stinging leaves in an ancient horrible pot. I did not like the flower, I decided to read it to someone and even began to look for"good hands". Not so simple. To give a pity to anyone was sorry, still the spirit is alive, and not the guilty one, who is such ugly. Decided to him before parting to read an unprecedented pot. She began to transplant, she was still surprised, because of the bad soil in his - like dust with some garbage and claydite. Has planted in an ordinary garden ground, peat to peat and sand is more, all the same is similar for a cactus. And later I decided to honor him. And I realized that"sand with garbage"is a substratum deliberately prepared for him, much orchids are planted. And he paints great (if it's excellent for him). And I him in ordinary land! I rushed to see what was happening to him, and I saw that the leaves had been straightened and now do not hang like a washcloth, but they looked unhappily up, they began to grow green all the time (from the brown ones), and new ones began to grow. Now I'm scratching my head. The earth is in fact for him not at all what he needs, but he likes it. It's time to give it to someone I changed my mind.
Калинка
https://forum.bestflowers.ru/t/tillandsija-tillandsia.1222/

Ничто действовать с цветоносом тилландсии не нужно. Если она отцветёт — народит детей, материнское растение может отмереть, а может остаться проживать. Сама второго цветения Бромелиевых не смогла дождаться. В литературе упоминается, который Бромелиевые зацветают однажды в жизни, потом цветения отмирают, оставляя детей, эти дети позже вырастают и год для 3-ий цветут… И т.д..
Wildy
https://forum.bestflowers.ru/t/tillandsija-tillandsia.1222/

Thillandsia is a task. Tokmo dried the main flower, from time to time on the other hand, the next succeeded, unswervingly symmetrical! However, it has not yet opened. Or infinitely unreasonably revealed, or something is missing, the desire has not dried up. However, already from the first side, the tip of the next flower appeared again. I read that she can only own two flowers at a time, no more, others strictly according to the order are revealed, instead of the deceased. Ax
http://forum-flower.ru/showthread.php?t=197
I like Tillandsia very much. These are not ordinary children, which are excellent and without the usual for the plants of the earth. They are all necessary for the life of matter taken from the air, air dust with the help of small scales with which their leaves are covered ... If the atmospheric Tillandsia is sprinkled with water, it becomes green. Linsi
http://frauflora.ru/viewtopic.php?t=3000

I attached my own baby Tillansiy for the block. The substrate of living moss is primed to the bark with a polyethylene mesh (from under the vegetables), into the holes of the net, screwed the bottoms of Tillands. While the block lies, if the plants grow, it is allowed to hang rather. To live has caused for a shelf with orchids with artificial illumination, there, byl, heating from below leaves. Spray will be a separate day in the afternoon, according to a little. ЧерНика
http://frauflora.ru/viewtopic.php?t=3000

Plants of the Bromeliad family have such an exception: then the flowering of the ancient rosette dies evenly, having formed one or several children in advance. Therefore, the appearance of dry spots in your Tillandsia is probably related specifically to this process. If you will immediately irrigate it strongly, of course from above, rotting may begin, which (it is not excluded) will affect children as well. If the children are already well formed, they can be sent to a very delicate land, although it is better to live closer to spring. Lady-Flo
http://frauflora.ru/viewtopic.php?t=3000 <
My thillandsia grow without a terrarium. And I do not spray them, but I pour around a feeble shower with orchids in one day. The disease of jellyfish has been living with me for 5-6 years. Eat purchased with a support - they are glued to the silicone. Those that took separately, tied with a soft elastic braid (through tights) to the snag - it does not hurt them. However, I think, which one to eat and another successful attempt. Capital
http://www.flowersweb.info/forum/forum14/topic32876/messages/? PAGEN_1=9

Experiment, for the time being, I do not have much, but according to observations, Tillandsia ionata - it seems to be the most resilient."And Fushi grazilis is heavier in winter only, tiny leaves."To be centrally heated they all definitely dry, but before spring they must endure. soft water, boiled or filtered. Maybe I should put a pallet with wet claydite around them? I measured the humidity of the house with a device: it indicates 20%, it's for the sake of just a living lot. Karryteddy
http://www.flowersweb.info/forum/forum14/topic32876/messages/?PAGEN_1=9

Tillandsia has a strong rosette of narrow dark green leaves longish before 30 cm. A large spicate inflorescence of bright pink color grows in the middle of the rosette. In the safe conditions from the scales of this ear, small flowers of blue or violet color start to bloom. Watering a flower is often, but not to extinguish. It is allowed to spray. Do not throw around in direct sunlight. Such flowers are not very fond of drafts. My 1st thallandsia started to dismiss blue flowers, or rather, there was something similar to the kidney, but I opened the window to ventilate the room. For no reason it was cold outside. In general, these kidneys died and the flower no longer bloomed. After 2 months, the red paint began to fade and uniformly turned into green. Blue flowers bloom around a week, and the spike is very endless. If the red paint fades, and then turns green, it is likely that the flower began to fade, soon he will begin to ache. My first thillandia began to ache, but small children began to grow in a large rosette. I cut off the greenish, dried up ear, and placed the children in small pots through the main sockets of children. It's not at all difficult to plant Tillandia, with effort to tear off the baby through the main outlet and carry it to the pot, add land and an end! In the web I read that the main flower is forced to die, but I have the main, and children, the life, the main one dropped a little leaflets. Children do not blossom yet. In the web, I read that in order to let the children begin to blossom, they must recover 3-4 years old. It's been a year now. To feed the flower is allowed by special means that are suitable for orchids.
Perfjulia
http://otzovik.com/review_1433137.html
Tillandsia is one of the most popular houseplants from the Bromeliad family. Its extraordinary appearance and spectacular flowering at once attracts reverence. It is widely used for the creation of interior compositions - here the owner is limited only by his imagination. Tillandsiyu can not be called ordinary in the care of a plant, however, the forces consumed by the gardener are time-consuming and are time-consuming to pay for the originality of the culture.
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