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Разработка посадки плетистых роз
Пышно расцветающие растения требуют особенного внимания, и длинноватые плети с большими бархатными цветами не изъятие. Токмо на техническом уровне сверенная посадка, кропотливая подкормка, своевременная обрезка, оборона кустарников через вредителей и зимнее утепление гарантируют настоящий итог — обильное цветение в протяжении только теплого сезона.
Избрание места выкармливания
Roses are very fond of the sun and can not undergo swampy places, hence the placement of their planting should be well ventilated and illuminated by the sun's rays. Also, plants grow worse, if earlier roses have already been planted for the planned site. Well, if there is a place close to that used for the winter storage of shrubs. The lush bushes are great for decorating old buildings, cabins, utility rooms: budding shoots successfully cover the parts of the roof and walls
So that the water does not stagnate in the ground, the chosen room must have at least a slight inclination. Dampness may appear due to near-lying groundwater. It should be borne in mind that the length of the roots often reaches 2 meters, and if there is a danger of excessive humidity, plant flowers for elevation. Sometimes pink bushes are planted near the walls of the building with the purpose of decorating them, which threatens exhaustion roots. For the sake of preventing this problem, keep a gap of 55-60 cm through the walls, also more than 50 cm through other plants. The exclusion of specifically cloven species is the presence of a support, the occupation of which is usually played by walls, arches, pergolas, nets, fences, deliberately made cones or pillars. A reliable support for the sake of a climbing rose is allowed to construct with your own hands from several bars or planks, which are connected in the form of a grid or cone.
The best landing time
with a moderate climate, the chosen landing interval - from the last decade of September, according to the appearance of October. After one or two weeks, the plants give the first roots, which have time to adapt before the advent of severe frosts. With the advent of spring, both the aboveground and root parts begin to unfold intensively, and by the time of flowering the bush is gaining full strength, not yielding to the luxuriance of old plants. When setting the time for planting of climbing roses, one should take into account the characteristics of the variety: for example,"Super Dorothy"blooms enough proto, despite the early date of plantation. If planting is to be carried out in spring, the development of flowers will be delayed for approximately 15 days , and the education of such a climbing rose will need more painstaking. Seedling before landing in the ground should perform shorter for 2-3 kidneys. Beginners gardeners come in easier: they acquire root plants in containers in the nursery, and put them in the ground in the late spring.
Initial seedlings
It should be zealous to handle the seedlings before planting , if their development is rather bad. Cooking involves pretty much manipulation:
soaking seedlings in water for 1 day (either roots only or only plants);
trimming of shoots and roots
dusting of cuttings with charcoal pre-crushed
root trimming with a useful consistency.
When trimming pickled roses, one should learn to shorten several (3-5) strong shoots before the 15 cm elevation, the weaker shoots must be removed all. Similarly come with the root system: shattered or longish shoots are removed, leaving a short bunch. Thanks to this, the development of the plant is rather more intensive, and in the flowering period the rose will give numerous lush buds. The correct preparation of the seedlings is a sure bet that the plant will gain the apogee of strength and at an extraordinary moment will cover itself with a violent color.
The cropped and impregnated fertilizers, the seedlings receive the typical immunity, with which they develop and blossom with a lush color p>
The only one of the variants of the mineral consistency for the sake of processing: little clay, 1/10 the proportion of mullein, phosphorobacterin (for 10 liters of solution - 2-3 pills). It is permissible to extract heteroauxin - only 1 pill is enough.
Features of earth preparation
The impeccable land for the sake of the rose bush is a loosely loamy permeable bottom containing a bubble discharge. Dust and pregnant clay are not suitable at all for the sake of feeding flowers, therefore any of these types of land should be diluted with the reverse. A little lime will make the earth crumbly and more suitable in accordance with the chemical composition. Tomorous fragrant buds of catchy color are the main sign of which the bottom for the sake of the plant is chosen correctly: it perfectly passes water and atmosphere
In order to increase fertility, humus, sod, phosphoric fertilizers, special soil bacteria (phosphorobacterin) are added to the soil. At the end of the age, they are dug out a couple of times, and in the spring they create another shoveling.
Pit structure: more freedom <
The size of the landing pit must be sufficient, so that the young rootlets of the plant do not lack space. The best abyss is 60-65 cm. Pits should be located for a distance of more than 1 m one through another, only in this case the root order will be able to unfold freely. To plant a rose, the root neck is immersed in the soil for about 10-12 cm - this is so, its defense through the frost during the winter period (to be available for additional warming). When arranging the pit, one must take into account not only its size, yes and finding relative to the support: the development of the roots of the plant should not be moved
The roots are loosely, painfully filling the voids between them. In each hole should make about 5 kg of peat or similar nutrient consistency. Fill the hole with ground before the level of the surface of the ground, and then trample a little. The future upbringing due to the wicker roses presupposes the timely fertilizing of the fertilizer. The first is carried out right after landing. For the sake of irrigation perfect medley fosfobakterina and IAA, such as variation -. Humates In order to saturate the soil useful for the plant micronutrients, its mulch humus, compost or turf, which is free to prepare for giving their own hands
Garter and shrub formation
Directing the young shoots, it is allowed to give the rose bushes exactly the form that was planned at the beginning. For the sake of the formation of more buds and abundant flowering, a garter of individual weaves is needed. Usually, the woolly future is used for the sake of vertical decoration, but this does not mean that the branches should exist forever without any branches: the bush will be scanty and the buds will appear only at the very top.
The liberation is simple: fairly basic branches horizontally, but for the sake of this they must be tied. Any main arapant will give fairly lateral shoots, rising skyward, and the essence - a whole cloud of lush colors. A well-known view is not bad for the design of walls, large mesh fences, pergolas. The correct garter of roses ensures the development of shoots in a suitable direction: along the fence or arch, over the plane, near the supports of various configurations.
A good verdict for the sake of the walkway is a suite of arches created for design by stitched roses and clematis that are already planted and will quickly go to profits
Another method of location of shoots is"fan", if lateral shoots freely extend upwards and to the sides, without interfering with each other. For the sake of braiding a column or an arch, a"spiral"is more suitable if the whips are twisted around the support. To be any location of shoots should not be despised by the care of climbing roses, and this applies not only to the permanent remnant, watering and feeding, and preparations for frost. Do not forget the relative aesthetic role of the bush of the climbing rose: their appearance can be refreshed by removing the dried shoots or cutting off excess lashes
Shelter for winter and storage
Ordinary roses of rather autumn humming, full thermal insulation are necessary. There are two methods: with removal from the support and without it.
In the first case, the whole plant is removed from the support, the leaves are removed, the weak shoots and old whips are trimmed, leaving only 11-12 strong shoots. They are neatly collected in a huge bundle, tied, tilted to the ground and fixed in this position with the help of pegs. For the last, cover with fir paws. The base of the bush should be sprinkled with a consistence of soil and peat, Single pink bushes are harvested separately, and the closely growing ones are allowed to be insulated with the help of a huge piece of agrofiber, which covers quite a few shrubs.
The second method is reminiscent of the main, but the whips remain tied to the support. It is used in regions with a milder climate. Shoots are covered with all the same lapnikom, and tightly wrapped on top with a film. High-quality covering material and correctly executed warming guarantee the safety of the pink bush right up to the spring thaw.
Разработка посадки плетистых роз
Пышно расцветающие растения требуют особенного внимания, и длинноватые плети с большими бархатными цветами не изъятие. Токмо на техническом уровне сверенная посадка, кропотливая подкормка, своевременная обрезка, оборона кустарников через вредителей и зимнее утепление гарантируют настоящий итог — обильное цветение в протяжении только теплого сезона.
Избрание места выкармливания
Roses are very fond of the sun and can not undergo swampy places, hence the placement of their planting should be well ventilated and illuminated by the sun's rays. Also, plants grow worse, if earlier roses have already been planted for the planned site. Well, if there is a place close to that used for the winter storage of shrubs. The lush bushes are great for decorating old buildings, cabins, utility rooms: budding shoots successfully cover the parts of the roof and walls
So that the water does not stagnate in the ground, the chosen room must have at least a slight inclination. Dampness may appear due to near-lying groundwater. It should be borne in mind that the length of the roots often reaches 2 meters, and if there is a danger of excessive humidity, plant flowers for elevation. Sometimes pink bushes are planted near the walls of the building with the purpose of decorating them, which threatens exhaustion roots. For the sake of preventing this problem, keep a gap of 55-60 cm through the walls, also more than 50 cm through other plants. The exclusion of specifically cloven species is the presence of a support, the occupation of which is usually played by walls, arches, pergolas, nets, fences, deliberately made cones or pillars. A reliable support for the sake of a climbing rose is allowed to construct with your own hands from several bars or planks, which are connected in the form of a grid or cone.
The best landing time
with a moderate climate, the chosen landing interval - from the last decade of September, according to the appearance of October. After one or two weeks, the plants give the first roots, which have time to adapt before the advent of severe frosts. With the advent of spring, both the aboveground and root parts begin to unfold intensively, and by the time of flowering the bush is gaining full strength, not yielding to the luxuriance of old plants. When setting the time for planting of climbing roses, one should take into account the characteristics of the variety: for example,"Super Dorothy"blooms enough proto, despite the early date of plantation. If planting is to be carried out in spring, the development of flowers will be delayed for approximately 15 days , and the education of such a climbing rose will need more painstaking. Seedling before landing in the ground should perform shorter for 2-3 kidneys. Beginners gardeners come in easier: they acquire root plants in containers in the nursery, and put them in the ground in the late spring.
Initial seedlings
It should be zealous to handle the seedlings before planting , if their development is rather bad. Cooking involves pretty much manipulation:
soaking seedlings in water for 1 day (either roots only or only plants);
trimming of shoots and roots
dusting of cuttings with charcoal pre-crushed
root trimming with a useful consistency.
When trimming pickled roses, one should learn to shorten several (3-5) strong shoots before the 15 cm elevation, the weaker shoots must be removed all. Similarly come with the root system: shattered or longish shoots are removed, leaving a short bunch. Thanks to this, the development of the plant is rather more intensive, and in the flowering period the rose will give numerous lush buds. The correct preparation of the seedlings is a sure bet that the plant will gain the apogee of strength and at an extraordinary moment will cover itself with a violent color.
The cropped and impregnated fertilizers, the seedlings receive the typical immunity, with which they develop and blossom with a lush color p>
The only one of the variants of the mineral consistency for the sake of processing: little clay, 1/10 the proportion of mullein, phosphorobacterin (for 10 liters of solution - 2-3 pills). It is permissible to extract heteroauxin - only 1 pill is enough.
Features of earth preparation
The impeccable land for the sake of the rose bush is a loosely loamy permeable bottom containing a bubble discharge. Dust and pregnant clay are not suitable at all for the sake of feeding flowers, therefore any of these types of land should be diluted with the reverse. A little lime will make the earth crumbly and more suitable in accordance with the chemical composition. Tomorous fragrant buds of catchy color are the main sign of which the bottom for the sake of the plant is chosen correctly: it perfectly passes water and atmosphere
In order to increase fertility, humus, sod, phosphoric fertilizers, special soil bacteria (phosphorobacterin) are added to the soil. At the end of the age, they are dug out a couple of times, and in the spring they create another shoveling.
Pit structure: more freedom <
The size of the landing pit must be sufficient, so that the young rootlets of the plant do not lack space. The best abyss is 60-65 cm. Pits should be located for a distance of more than 1 m one through another, only in this case the root order will be able to unfold freely. To plant a rose, the root neck is immersed in the soil for about 10-12 cm - this is so, its defense through the frost during the winter period (to be available for additional warming). When arranging the pit, one must take into account not only its size, yes and finding relative to the support: the development of the roots of the plant should not be moved
The roots are loosely, painfully filling the voids between them. In each hole should make about 5 kg of peat or similar nutrient consistency. Fill the hole with ground before the level of the surface of the ground, and then trample a little. The future upbringing due to the wicker roses presupposes the timely fertilizing of the fertilizer. The first is carried out right after landing. For the sake of irrigation perfect medley fosfobakterina and IAA, such as variation -. Humates In order to saturate the soil useful for the plant micronutrients, its mulch humus, compost or turf, which is free to prepare for giving their own hands
Garter and shrub formation
Directing the young shoots, it is allowed to give the rose bushes exactly the form that was planned at the beginning. For the sake of the formation of more buds and abundant flowering, a garter of individual weaves is needed. Usually, the woolly future is used for the sake of vertical decoration, but this does not mean that the branches should exist forever without any branches: the bush will be scanty and the buds will appear only at the very top.
The liberation is simple: fairly basic branches horizontally, but for the sake of this they must be tied. Any main arapant will give fairly lateral shoots, rising skyward, and the essence - a whole cloud of lush colors. A well-known view is not bad for the design of walls, large mesh fences, pergolas. The correct garter of roses ensures the development of shoots in a suitable direction: along the fence or arch, over the plane, near the supports of various configurations.
A good verdict for the sake of the walkway is a suite of arches created for design by stitched roses and clematis that are already planted and will quickly go to profits
Another method of location of shoots is"fan", if lateral shoots freely extend upwards and to the sides, without interfering with each other. For the sake of braiding a column or an arch, a"spiral"is more suitable if the whips are twisted around the support. To be any location of shoots should not be despised by the care of climbing roses, and this applies not only to the permanent remnant, watering and feeding, and preparations for frost. Do not forget the relative aesthetic role of the bush of the climbing rose: their appearance can be refreshed by removing the dried shoots or cutting off excess lashes
Shelter for winter and storage
Ordinary roses of rather autumn humming, full thermal insulation are necessary. There are two methods: with removal from the support and without it.
In the first case, the whole plant is removed from the support, the leaves are removed, the weak shoots and old whips are trimmed, leaving only 11-12 strong shoots. They are neatly collected in a huge bundle, tied, tilted to the ground and fixed in this position with the help of pegs. For the last, cover with fir paws. The base of the bush should be sprinkled with a consistence of soil and peat, Single pink bushes are harvested separately, and the closely growing ones are allowed to be insulated with the help of a huge piece of agrofiber, which covers quite a few shrubs.
The second method is reminiscent of the main, but the whips remain tied to the support. It is used in regions with a milder climate. Shoots are covered with all the same lapnikom, and tightly wrapped on top with a film. High-quality covering material and correctly executed warming guarantee the safety of the pink bush right up to the spring thaw.
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