Lovers of rosaries often blame, which in the conditions of our winter can not keep the varieties of bushes without damage. And sometimes they completely freeze. In this case, quality is also likely to be responsible, who is not designed for such conditions and is not adapted to the terrible climate. Even more often mistakes are made by the mistresses, who did not think about it, like to cover the roses for the winter, taking into account the variety, and eventually some of the bushes froze, while others fell through the extra"coat."
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What are the varieties of more than just the fear of frost?
A separate quality criterion asks personal wintering therefore first recallTea-hybrid roses and certain species of stiff rose are very afraid of frost.
Smaller varieties and floribunda are more persistent. To develop a shelter for their sake is not to overdo it.
Park roses are a real"seasoned"plant species. Most of them all do not ask for a particular refuge.
It happens that you did not determine which quality directly grows for your flower garden. In this case, it is worthwhile to foresee the shelter of roses for the winter though the desire for the sake of protecting their root system through excess water and making a safe local climate for the wintering of the trunk. Protective"attire"will make the temperature drops that are least tangible, provoking the freezing of branches.
Stop feeding
Do not loosen the land
With the beginning of September, stop all loosening of the soil layer near the bushes, so as not to stimulate the profits of young shoots. This will save the sleeping buds through awakening, mainly if the temperature of September recollects the summer.
We are pruning
The pruning condition for successful wintering of roses is their pruning. It does not require just helmet and park varieties. To extract branches follows for height the elevation of the future shelter, so that it is allowed to hide a full bush. All the grass (leaves and young shoots) - cut out, because they all can not stand the frosts, and woody parts a little shorten.
We clean the waste <
From each of the bush, take out the accumulated waste, such as impassive foliage, grass, etc., in order to avoid fungal diseases, the spores of which adore settling in similar places.
Handling bushes
For the sake of strengthening immunity and increasing the resistance of bushes to moisture, sprinkle roses with steel vitriol or Bordeaux liquid.
We hone each rose
In order to improve the aeration of the root system, then sprinkle the roses with a rose for about 20 see In the winter, the loose bottom holds abundant air, who does not give frost to come to the roots. The humming of the bush will make a good aeration, which is quite a barrier for the sake of frost.
Having found out, like to prepare roses for the winter, and having made all the necessary procedures, we begin to wait for the measured cold. This will happen here and there in the middle of October. In advance of the time, the covering of roses for the winter is not worth living.
The signal for the beginning of cover works should be caused by permanent minus temperatures (near -6?), Which will be treated for a week or more. In the southern regions, winter may not be long, so wait.
Remember: it is better to hide the plants later than untimely. Powerless weather shoots are not terrible. It will only harden the roses and accelerate the maturation of the branches. But the early shelter will provoke the young shoots and wake the buds, which, of course, for winter is not necessary. Be sure to keep in mind that if you decide to cover roses for the winter, a dry helpless person should stick out. If earlier there were rains or a moist sediment - wait a couple of days before the drying of the ground near the bushes, as excessive moisture can provoke various fungal infections, and in closed mode plants will quickly catch the pain.
Types of refuge for the sake of different kinds of roses
To be any type of refuge that you choose, an inexistent condition for a good wintering should be an internal air layer, i.e. The rose and the matter should not densely border. This will protect the bushes through obstruction at the end of winter, if prolonged thaws begin. If the shelter is extremely tightly wrapped in branches, then the usual supply of oxygen is disrupted, and the plant"suffocates."
Воздушно-сухое укрытие: ради чайно-гибридных видов и флорибунды
Из многих вариантов садоводы отдают важность воздушно-сухому укрытию, которое держит постоянную температуру (перед -4?) и отличный вентилируется. Распорядок укрывания таковой:
Из железных прутков либо проволоки плетем каркас в 60 см высотой.
Огораживаем им кустик в виде конуса.
Поверх металла натягиваем теплоизолятор. Дозволено скрывать розы для зиму лутрасилом, пергамином, картоном и пр.We fix the material to the frame by twine.
Cover the made house with polyethylene, who will not let in the precipitate and water.
From the bottom, the entire film is covered with soil. If each rose is covered with lapnickel, the mice will not be flattered for branches and trunk
Instead of the skeleton it is allowed to catch the bushes with containers with holes, and then cover the frost with a film
Shield cover: for the sake of a climbing rose
Scrofulous roses remain longer than other species with leaflets, hence from the moment of the coming of a measured cold it is necessary to answer all the foliage together with the petioles. If they can bend in winter and transmit the infection to the kidney.
The schedule of work is as follows:
We bind the prepared bush with a bundle and bend it in that direction, branches stretch much.
For the ground we spread lapnik (it will protect the whips through mice) and lay the bush on top.
Shoot down 2 woody shields: length=length of the bush, width - about 85 cm.
We place shields in the form of a house above the bush, but in order not to block we paddled, pinned them, hammering them into the ground.
The house is covered with polyethylene, covering the ends and covering the film with all the sides of the ground. (If the soil near the bush is not frozen again, then lift the film at the ends, and then come the measured cold - close).
If the winter turns out to be warm, then the corners of the ends open slightly to make airing.
The branches are laid for the earth in the book direction, much they themselves bend. This will save through the cracking of the bark
If the wood pegs are hammered into the ground, they will not allow the shields to slide around the weight of the snow
Shields are protected by climbing roses growing in rows. However, if the bush is placed in the center of the flower bed, and other plants are wintered, the hard shields can spoil them. In this case, for the sake of a climbing rose, a subsequent shelter is made for the winter:
The associated whips are not laid for the ground, but fixed in a column, nailing the pegs and attaching the plant to them.
Made of metal frame-pyramid and placed it near the plant for no reason, in order to avoid contact with the branches.
Overlay the fiberglass, pulling it with twine and sprinkling it with soil from below. It will not let in the weather and will ensure good ventilation.
If there is no fiberglass - pull the spond or another non-woven road, and on top - the cephalic (do not forget to vent vent, if the warming bush gets tough!). Jute sacks: shelter for the sake of a rosebud
Stamping bushes planted in tubs should live in a dry cool basement. However, if plants are planted in the soil, it is best to cover their crown with a jute bag. Put a pocket without a bottom for the crown and tie the growth points of the crown first.
Cover the dry foliage or tampen the lapnik.
Tie the pocket from the top.
The trunk hide the burlap.
If the shelter is the end - wish the roses a measured winter and a cheerful wake up in the spring!
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