In the conditions of terrible climate, the owners in every possible way try to insulate the building or the dacha. For example, to protect the front door put a veranda. This is a typical vestibule, where there is a mixture of cool outdoor air and warm, from the inside. However, by warming the building, they do not always take into account, which also does not prevent the veranda from additional insulation. If the unheated place is enough to freeze and die, why the correction will quickly become worthless. To be a competent approach warm the veranda again for the step of construction. However, it happens that the building was not built, but taken, while not in the best possible form. In this case, the insulation of the veranda from the inside with their own hands is carried out if necessary. The essence is light, where the coolness"creeps up"into the place, and make various protective measures. <
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Eliminate the coolness of the earth: to insulate the base
Usually, the veranda put to such same type of foundation, and that the basic construction - solid concrete or concrete slabs. This matter does not completely block the coolness, who agrees in the winter from the earth, hence is able to freeze right through. Loss of heat through the base is achieved by 20%.
The options, like warming the base of the summer veranda, can exist fairly.
Backfilling of the interior with earth or expanded clay
These options are possible only at the step of erecting the veranda, if the foundation work is underway. After removing the formwork, the entire inner area is covered with earth or with expanded clay. The soil will cost inexpensively, mainly if there is plenty of excess soil remaining to be built. Byl, its property of heat-saving is not high.
The claydite layer does not allow moisture and frost to fall into the concrete slab. If the veranda has an ancient tile, then it is allowed to evaluate the heat insulator steadily for it p>
We consider, it is permissible to insulate the floor for an unheated veranda:
The full basement is covered with rubble, and the top is filled with sand and compacted densely.
Lay the reinforcing bars or mesh (so that the concrete does not burst) and make a concrete screed 5 cm wide.
If the pouring is hard, create a waterproofing. It is easier only to smear the screed with water-repellent mastic. However, it is cheaper to lay sheets of roofing material and to fasten them between themselves with bitumen mastic (or burn with a burner and roll).
The lag impregnated with antiseptic is installed above the waterproofing, and a heat insulator is placed between them. The present balanced version is mineral wool with a foil side. The foil does not let out of the veranda infrared radiation, together with which a large proportion of heat evaporates. The rolls of the heat insulator are then put on, like lags are installed all the way.
Permitted to insulate and expanded polystyrene. Then the joints between the slabs should be blown with a mounting foam, and if it dries up excesses must be met. Then planking or decking, as a couple of materials - warm. The board should be treated in every possible way through decay and painted with a protective compound. In addition, the natural tree is very wary of cheesy ventilation. In order to avoid dampness, perform in the foundation ventilation vents, which should occupy below the floor level. The heat insulator is laid with foil upward, so that it reflects the heat back to the veranda.
Decking does not ask for ventilation in the underground, so as he is not afraid of dampness and temperature changes
Decking is also a board, but already processed by the compositions for the plant. It is made from larch, which is not horrible either frost or moisture. Such material is lined with open terraces, which, for no reason, it will suit the veranda. Byl, the dignity of such a floor will be expensive.
We put thermal protection for the sake of the walls
The walls have a large place of contact with the street, therefore we'll see how to insulate the veranda with our own hands from the outside and from within . Outside, heat insulation is created in this case, if the matter of the walls looks unattractive. Those. it can exist blocks, an old tree, etc.
Внешнее утепление
а) Ради древесных стенок:
Заделываем безвыездно щели в постройке.
For a tree we fill the vertical crate from the beams in steps of half a meter. It is better to measure the width of the heat insulator and fill it according to its size.
Between the blocks we insert mineral wool, fixing the dowel-umbrellas.
We fix the waterproofing film over the stapler.
We make the lining or siding Then lay the mineral wool with a stapler attached to the crate waterproofing film
b) For the sake of the block walls:
Styrofoam plates with special glue composition, precise sealing with dowel-umbrellas
Lubricate the same glue according to the top of the slabs and fix for their reinforcing mesh.
Then we cover the walls with decorative plaster.
Krasim. Choose the glue the amount intentionally for the laying of polystyrene plates
All the layers of the heat cake are hiding around the decorative plaster
We warmed from inside
If the veranda is looking outside aesthetically, and you do not want to change its external appearance, it is allowed to deceive the internal insulation. However, before you can insulate the veranda from the inside, you need to carefully zapopatit all the gaps (in a wood building).
Fix a waterproofing film with a stapler that will not let water from the street into the heat insulator.
Mount the iron frame from the profiles for which the plasterboard will be fixed later.
Fill the frame with mineral wool. li>Cover the thermal insulator with a vapor barrier film.
Mount the drywall.
Apply the final coating (shpatlyut, color). The gap between the metal profiles should be the same as width of heat insulator sheets
Check the density of installing windows, doors
Huge heat dissipation can move through windows and doors. If your old veranda has old wood windows, but you do not want to change them for double-glazed windows, then you need to thoroughly check their density:
First we pay homage to the glazing property of the veranda: for this we pull a separate glazing bead.
If they are cracked or unsteady, it is better to pull out the glass, clear the grooves and smudge them with silicone sealant.
Then we put the glasses back and apply the sealant to the edge.
We press it with glazing beads (new!).
Take a walk with an ordinary iron ruler at the junction between the frame and the window opening. If in some places it freely passes, it is likely that these cracks should be fixed with mounting foam. It's like if you check the front door without reason. If you took an unheated variation, you will have to warm the road from the inside and enclose with dermatine. Locking the glass on both sides with a sealant, you will make them impenetrable for the sake of the wind
All places where the ruler freely moves , you need to make a mistake
Eliminate warm air leaks through the ceiling
It remains to be guided, like to insulate the ceiling, because through it a significant amount of heat escapes from the veranda. Mostly if the front door opens. A great amount of cool air instantly squeezes out the hot air.
The ideal ideal option is to lay the foamed polymer foam between the beams, who will rather own the heat and not let the water pass.
It is permissible to select mineral wool , but here the first layer is laid ruberoid for the sake of vapor barrier, and for it - the plates of the heat insulator. Near the mineral wool, ruberoid is used for the sake of waterproofing
Then, with so much warmth, your veranda will withstand any frost, even If she is pretty neot Lebanon. Useful compost: the rules of laying and combining plant waste If you get bad soil for the site, for which nothing wants to grow, enrich it. It's easier to bring a black earth, of course, it's not always possible to get it, mostly in the city. To write a lot of chemistry is also unprofitable: in the end, you yourself will eat it. One thing remains: to fulfill the nutritional soil itself. And more precisely - to learn to prepare the necessary compost. This ignorant person is afraid of compost pits because they think that they are issuing a stench, which spoils the atmosphere for the entire site. In fact, the compost does not smell, if it is well to stop and help the activity of microbes. It seems like we'll go into more detail.
Premise for the compost pit and its ennobling
Therefore, first they select a comfortable premise for the site for the sake of the compost pit. Usually, they take away the terrain for the backyard of the garden, because of the buildings, where the appearance of the heap of waste does not quite spoil the general appearance. Unparalleled aspect: look at the time of heavy rain, much water drains. It should not run towards the well (if there is one), if there can be products of smoldering waste that will affect the quality and taste of the water.
There are two options for arrangement: it is allowed to take a deep hole and lay raw materials for it compost, or reduce from the wood planks a spacious box with a removable wall for convenience of use.
Development of the creation of the pit
Take out the land less than a meter deep, three meters in length and one and a half wide.
Through the walls of the pit retreat according to 20 cm on each side and knock down the wooden box, digging at the corners of the 4 posts and nailing them to the plates.
Between the intervals of the slabs, the gap is about 5 cm, so that the compost layers are aired all the way.
Divide the pit for two equal parts with a wooden shield to fill just one half.
branches of trees, bark, lagnik and grass (which you will find). These are fairly small pebbles, draining excess water and helping the compost to ventilate from below. The height of the drainage layer is 10-15 cm.
Vegetable wastes are stored in one part of the compost pit, but because of the season, they are moved a couple of times from one half to the other in order to saturate the heap with oxygen. The pit is allowed to act half in the ground, rather than deepen the whole, it's easier for you to move the content fairly and the air access will improve <
Compost box action
The 2nd variation of the compost bookmark is in a box of unpainted wood (or factory plastic). In accordance with the external appearance, it is completely similar to ordinary boxes, just more than a couple of times. To develop a skeleton do not forget to throw the slots between the boards and one side to perform a removable, so it was more convenient to stop and mix the raw materials. Like a variation, you can hang the door. The plastic composter has a perforated door from below for each side, through which the content is ventilated, but you'll have to humidify the waste yourself
Because usually these structures are made for a long age, then the floor is allowed to be concreted, and on top of lay small stones (such, like in the pit). Some owners put for the bottom of wood or plastic shields. Byl, with time the tree will become worthless, but there is nothing endless.
Now it is necessary to fill the prepared room with the right raw material, which will rot into high-quality compost. Two close-lying boxes for the sake of compost are comfortable , which is allowed to transfer waste for the sake of ventilation from the 1st to the other without clogging the surrounding area.
Features of correct waste disposal
Useful raw materials
So that your heap is successfully rotted and turned into nutritious soil for a new season, it is necessary to throw in the compost only vegetable waste: leaves, sloping grass, part of root crops and fruits, humus, weeds, finely chopped branches of trees and shrubs. By laying waste in the compost pit from your own garden, you solve the problem of removing vegetable debris and get the freshest, benign soil
In order to fulfill the amount of compost even more nutritious, lay it in it without leaving, which you yourself did not eat: some soups, coffee grounds, tea leaves, yesterday's salad, etc. In a word, put one more container in the house close to the bucket for garbage waste, and you are amazed at how vividly it is quite filled. For the sake of compost, old cardboard boxes, newspapers (black and white), worn out luggage from natural materials (cotton, hair) are suitable for compost.
Unnecessary ingredients
And now stop for harmful, based on the beliefs of the most experienced truck farmers, waste. It is absolutely impossible to plug some animal products into compost: dead birds and animals, old fat, fats, guts, spoiled milk, sour cream, etc. Without decomposition it begins to radiate a bitter spirit and draws to a pile of harmful insects, neighbor dogs, cats and crows . In addition, rotten processes in animal remains are slower than in plant, and your compost will not have time to ripen to the next season.
But with the marine residents summer residents without reason and are not conditioned. Some do not add them, so as not to attract animals to the pile, but others with pleasure throw in the compost all the way, which remains to be cleaned fish (heads, scales, insides), motivating it with those that are contained in their expensive phosphorus for plants. Tokmo needs to dig this kind of waste deeper into the pile, so that the spirit does not smell the cats.
True, fish nutrition is useful. Therefore, all those who are sorry to throw out an expensive product, we recommend: do not put them in compost, and bury steadily about trees, in circumferential circles. Tokmo dig a hole deeper. Thus, you park the park and do not attract nomadic animals. If you destroy the compost box with the opening roof, then openly lay in the fish waste, because animals do not climb into such a capacity.
It is impossible to stop in the pit plastic, glass, iron objects, rubber, water through washing, etc. They are for the sake of the earth harmful. Do not bring usefulness and all the cardboard products for a laminated base or with colored patterns. Quickly, the paint and chemical substances in it are extremely abundant.
An unnecessary ingredient in the compost is the tops of tomatoes and potatoes. Around the autumn, she is all affected by phytophthora, and the spores of this disease will be transmitted with compost to healthy plants.
We do not pile into compost and weed plants with the flowering period that has begun or has come to an end. For example, if a dandelion had time to collect a flower, the seeds without a break are equally ripe, even if it is quite torn and placed in a heap. Therefore, try to mow the weeds before the appearance of flower buds.
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