Step-by-step master-class on the construction of the arbor: in a simple, but tasteful wayLast summer, I planned to do little to improve the villa part. Slightly reduced allotments around garden beds, but allocated additional meters near the recreation area. The vacant place was enough for a short flower garden, a couple of shrubs, an inflatable pond. However, this was not enough for a real holiday. I need a house. Its construction, I decided to take during the holidays.
At first I planned to do something very ordinary, according to the type of canopy for the four pillars. However, later, after consulting with the familiar builders, I realized that the whole really build and the more complex construction. Also for poles, but with walls and a real roof.
I had to go bankrupt because of the drawings, write the intention. For the paper came the following: a wooden house 3x4 m, for a columnar foundation with a gable roof covered with slate. The intention was approved for the family council, after that I rolled up my sleeves and started from the lesson. All the stages of work were done alone, although, really, in some moments the accomplice's desire did not interfere. Offer, tax, answer, hold ... Two to do was desire easier. However, nevertheless, I coped without the help of others.
I'll try to outline the stages of construction in detail, because the little things in this case turned out to be very important.
Stop 1. Building a foundation
According to the plan, the house should be light according to the weight built of boards and timber, therefore the real best foundation for it is the columnar one. Since I started my construction.
I took for this purpose a suitable platform near the fence about the size of a gazebo 3x4 m. I put pegs (4 pcs.) in the corners - there will be foundation pillars. Layout of corners of the future gazebo
I took a shovel and, because of a couple of hours, I dug out 4 square holes, corresponding to 70 cm in depth. The land for my sandy sector, does not freeze cool, hence this is all pretty. Grooves near foundation pillars
In the center of each cavity, I exposed a bar, a diameter of 12 mm, a length of 1 m. These will be the corners of the arbor, hence they must be set correctly according to the level. I had to measure the diagonals, the length of the perimeter and the vertical of the armaturine. Marking of the diagonals and the perimeter of the pergola base
Then the dismantling of old buildings for the site, I still had a heap of broken bricks. I poured it for the bottom of the hollows, and filled it with watery concrete. The concrete base came out near the column. A cushion of broken bricks near the concrete base is quite conducive to the uniform dispersal of pressure between the foundation and the ground
Concrete base near brick posts
After two days the concrete froze, for the bases I acquired, I built 4 brick posts according to the level.
There are 4 posts ready in the corners, but all the same the gap between them turned out to be extremely large - 3 m and 4 m. Consequently, between them I installed again 5 same columns, without the armature in the center. In total, there are 9 piers for the gazebo.
Each support I plastered the substance, and then - missed the mastic. For the sake of waterproofing on top of each column, laid 2 layers of roofing material. Brick pillars-supports will serve as a reliable foundation for the foundation of the arbor
Stop 2. Make the gazebo floor
I started with the bottom bandage, for it, in fact, it's enough to keep a full frame. I got the log 100x100 mm, cut it according to the dimensions. In order to be able to connect in the middle, for the ends of the beams I made the saws with the help of a saw and a chisel. After that, I assembled the lower strapping, according to the type of the designer, stringing the log for the reinforcement in the corners. The drill holes were drilled in advance by a drill (using a 12 mm diameter drill bit). Assembling the bars in the construction of the lower strapping
The bars were laid for foundation pillars - 4 pcs. perimeter of the pergola and 1 pc. in the center, along the long side. According to the end of the process, the tree was treated with fire-protection. The lower strapping, laid for the foundation pillar, is enough to service the crate for the sake of the board floor
It's time to cover the floor. I once again had oak boards on my farm from the earliest times, such as once suitable size - 150x40x3000 mm, I decided to extract them. Because they were not exactly even and the coins were frayed, they had to be driven out by the Reymus. The gun was in the possession of my neighbor, the fall was not used. Then the alignment process, the boards turned out to be very solid. While shavings formed as many as 5 bags!
I nailed the boards to the bars of the bundle with nails. A smooth wooden plank came out of oak. Floor gazebo, recruited from oak planks
Stop 3. The structure of the walls
From the existing beam 100x100 mm, I cut 4 posts according to 2 m. They will be installed in the corners of the arbor. From the ends of the racks I drilled holes and some of them for armature. Vertical they did not hold separately and strove to move at this inappropriate moment. Consequently, I fixed them with a jab, intentionally clipped for the sake of this matter in the stool. The nails were nailed to the floorboards and racks. Tokmo then the racks no longer slanted to the side and did not swing through the wind. Racks in the corners of the future gazebo
If the corner posts have been installed, I have reinstalled the 6 intermediate racks. Also fixed them with jibs.
Then - cut off 4 bars and, in accordance with the analogy with the lower strapping, secured the upper straps for the upper ends of the racks. Unity of the bar was also made in the middle.
A series of horizontal rails came up. They will form the walls of the gazebo, without which the entire structure will look rather ordinary overhang. I cut the rails from a bar 100x100mm, and decided to save a little for the back wall and took the board 100x70 mm. Only for the sake of the crate, a lightweight variation will do. Framework of the gazebo with racks, handrails and strapping
In order to install the railing, I made tie-ins in the racks, installed in their horizontal crossbeams and hammered nails. Because it is implied, which for the rail will lean, it is impossible to throw such a union. Additional bonding details are needed for the sake of rigidity. In this capacity, I used additional jibs that knocked the railing from the bottom. For the rear wall of the jamb did not set, there decided to fix the railing with corners from the bottom.
Then just made, I tackled the appearance of the arboreal parts of the arbor. For the sake of the beginning - I grinded the tree all the way with the help of a Bulgarian. There was no other tool available. Consequently, I took the Bulgarian, part of the grinding wheel for her and started from the lesson. For the time being I cleaned it all out, I went through a whole day. I worked in a respirator and glasses, as there was a lot of dust. She started to get up in the atmosphere, and later settled, wherever she wanted. The whole structure was covered with it. I had to take a rag and a brush and clean the dust-free surfaces.
If there is not a trace of dust left, I covered the wood with varnish in 2 layers. Used for this purpose a varnish-stain"Rolax", a paint"chestnut". The structure shone and acquired an aristocratic color. Frame of the pergola, painted with varnish-stain in 2 layers
Stop 4. Roof rafters
It is time to muzzle the base of the future roof, in other words - to determine the truss system. The roof is an ordinary gable roof, consisting of 4 triangular trusses. Exit through the ridge before the strapping - 1m. Then the calculations turned out to be exactly what you see looks for a gazebo by the way.
For the rafters used boards of 100x50 mm. Each farm I made up of 2 rafters, connected by a screed. On top, on 2 sides, - OSB liners, nailed in accordance with perimeter nails. In accordance with the plan, the rafter legs rest on the top bandage, so for their ends I made tie-in, according to the dimensions, the straps around the log. With the sidebar had a little trouble, but nothing, because of 2 hours and coped with this. Rafter trusses assembled from boards and sealed from above by OSB liners
I installed the farms through a separate meter. Start exhibited, withstanding the vertical, then - fixed with screws. It turned out that he himself can not master the rafters freely. Then I regretted that I did not take anyone to the assistants. After suffering an hour, I still put them out, but I advise everyone who will go according to my footsteps, all the same to ask someone to help for this step. If you can get a skew, then it's as if you have to change everything, which obviously does not add to your interest in the work.
Because the roof of the arbor is not enough to obey the increased loads, I decided not to judge the ridge log, but to fasten the rafters between me and the crate from the 50x20 mm board. The boards were made according to 5 pieces for a pair of slope. At the same time 2 of them I stuffed on both sides of the ridge for a distance of 2 cm through the tops of the trusses. In general, the crate for each slope was made up of 2 last boards (one"holds"the top, the second one - forms a slope) and 3 intermediate ones. The structure came out pretty strong, it will not be able to loosen it anymore. The cladding connects the trusses and quite a service for the sake of fixing the slate
For the next step, I opened the roof trusses and the floor with 2 layers of lacquer-varnish.
Stop 5. Galloon of walls and roof
Next - proceeded to the lining of the sidewalls with pine lining. The beginning was filled with railing around the perimeter of the bar 20x20 mm, and nailed to them with small nails. The rear wall blocked all, and lateral and front - just from the bottom, in front of the railing. As the end of the process, painted the lining varnish-stain.
The roof was left unfinished. I covered it with a colored slate with 5 waves, paint -"chocolate". For the entire roof went 9 slate sheets, on top - the ridge element is also a coffee color (4 m). Galun walls with pine lining protect the inner place of the arbor through the wind and sun
The colored stone does not look worse than modern roofing materials, and, in keeping with the longevity, far exceeds them
A bit later I plan to perform removable windows in the gaps to protect the gazebo in the winter. Collapse the frame, I'll put in them some lightweight matter (polycarbonate or teflon - again did not solve), and later they will install them in the gaps and to collect if necessary. Probably, a similar thing I will do with the doors.
And while, probably, without a break. I think that a well-known variation will appeal to those who want to build a gazebo lively, simple and cheap.
style="text-align: right;"> Gregory C.
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